It's Always Festival Season in Ludlow!
by Jane Gilbert
Few
towns contain such a wealth of atmosphere, history and legend as
the ancient market town of Ludlow. Nestling on the border between
England and Wales, its turbulent history stretches back to the
Norman invasion of England, when the aristocracy had to fortify
their newly-acquired lands, and the fiercely independent Welsh
were a force to be reckoned with.
Nowadays you are more likely to find craft shops and knitwear
than crossbows and knights. And fine foods too: Ludlow's
reputation as The Gastronomic Capital of England has put it
firmly on the map for discerning diners and international
visitors.
With its winding cobbled streets, timber-framed medieval
buildings and imposing castle renowned for its connections with
Richard the Third, Ludlow has always been popular with travellers
at any time of the year. Though lively and bustling in every
season, it is at Christmas that the whole town comes alive with
an eclectic mixture of the past and the present. Laced with a
good bit of seasonal cheer and some fine food and drink, the
Ludlow Medieval Christmas Fayre drenches you in history and
leaves you all revved up and ready for the holiday period.
A highlight of the Ludlow calendar for many years, the Fayre
draws an ever-increasing crowd. Renowned as a town which keeps
tradition alive, Ludlow enjoys a 'fresher' climate than the
southern half of England, and so it's easy to imagine yourself
transported back in time to the days when it always snowed at
Christmas time. The Fayre takes place in the castle, whose
medieval origins can still be seen. It's an imposing sight at any
time of the year, but when it is swathed in seasonal greenery,
it's easy to get into the spirit of Christmas Past.
Last year,
traditional entertainers, minstrels, singers and craftsmen, all
dressed in medieval costume, thronged the castle and the square
outside. This year promises to be even better, with the return of
old favourites as well as some exciting new acts -- a feast for
all the senses. Traditional games will be on offer, you can have
a go at archery, or even design your own family crest.
Ludlow has a reputation for being the home of craftsmen and
women. The Christmas Fayre is the perfect opportunity to sample
their exquisite crafts, traditional and modern . From jewellery
to houseware, leather goods to fine art, from the medieval-themed
and the not so medieval, you'll find a never-ending supply of
Christmas gift ideas at the Fayre.
And it doesn't stop there. Hot on the heels of the
internationally acclaimed Marches Festival of Food and Drink,
it's another chance to taste the wide selection of seasonally
themed and locally produced goods that give the town its
gastronomic reputation. Since 1995, when the first food and drink
festival took place, Ludlow has gone from strength to strength in
the catering arena. From venison to cider, chutney to candy
floss, you can try whatever takes your fancy. And it's not every
day you see a sausage maker in medieval costume. In medieval
times, your Christmas menu depended on how rich you were: it
might consist of soup and stew or it could be wild boar and figgy
pudding. The wild boar may be long gone from Shropshire's wooded
hills and valleys, and meat slowly roasted on a spit may have
been replaced by gourmet burger vans, but the spirit of fine food
lives on at the Fayre for everyone to enjoy.
Christmas in medieval England was a time for singing, dancing and
carousing by people of all classes, a tradition continued at the
Fayre. This year top medieval musicians 'Hautbois' will be
presenting their special Christmas show, alongside old favourites
such as The Stanchester Quire. This group of over sixty voices
has proved a popular attraction. From Somerset in the West
Country, they lead the Medieval Christmas court show after dark
on the Saturday.
'Mumming' is another popular Christmas tradition which
lives on at the Fayre. In Medieval times, local actors performed
irreverent plays or dances in village squares or castles, a
tradition which probably pre-dates Christianity. In modern
Ludlow, wandering minstrels and street entertainers promise to
keep this tradition alive. And that's not the only fusion of the
old and the new in the entertainment line-up this year. Unusual
quartet 'Wynndebagge and The Baggettes' will be entertaining the
crowds with their unique combination of medieval music with rock
'n' roll attitude. They'll be using authentic medieval
instruments, and offering members of the audience the chance to
join the band! And if you're still on your feet after all that
carousing, then on Saturday evening there will be a collection of
minstrels playing traditional music for everybody to join in the
dancing.
If Medieval England conjures up images of knights on horseback
winning the hands of ladies with their exploits and derring-do,
then you won't be disappointed at Ludlow. Battle re-enactment
specialists The Plantagenet Society will be demonstrating
spectacular medieval combat with swords and axes, as the knights
battle for the title of the Champion of Ludlow. And they'll be
bringing their squires and courtly ladies with them, ensuring
visitors get a taste of the romance we associate with medieval
life.
But the Christmas Fayre is by no means not the only seasonal
event Ludlow has to offer. The Ludlow summer festival boasts a
three week long programme of events culminating in the open air
Shakespeare production set in the castle grounds. The Fringe and
Jazz festival provides live music at the Bull Hotel, including
jazz, rock, folk and blues. The September Marches food and drink
festival is growing more popular by the year, attracting
international interest, and with a well-deserved reputation for
being the top food and drink event in Britain.
In spring, the May Fayre hosts a traditional funfair. Over spring
bank holiday weekend, Ludlow Carnival, with its decorated floats
of traditional entertainments meandering through the town, makes
a colourful start to the Shropshire summer.
Even after taking part in one of these events, Ludlow is a place
where you will want to linger. And there is plenty to see and do
even after the minstrel music has faded away. The obvious place
to start is the castle. Strategically situated on high land
overlooking the rivers Teme and Corve, Ludlow castle was built by
Walter de Lacey, one of William the Conqueror's trusted men, who
came to England in 1066. It was designed to keep the Marches (the
borderlands between England and Wales) safe from attacks from
marauding Welsh invaders.
But the castle is perhaps most famous for its
connection with the infamous Richard III, who spent much of his
boyhood there. Richard's nephews, Edward and Richard, more
commonly known as the Princes in the Tower, were also living in
Ludlow Castle when they heard of their father's death. This meant
that the eldest, Edward, would accede to the throne. However, he
was never crowned, as on his arrival in London he was imprisoned
in the tower with his brother. Soon after, they were murdered.
Following this, their uncle became King Richard III, and although
history has blamed him for the boys' murder, there are some today
who hotly contest this. We can never be sure of the boys' fate,
but it's easy to soak up the atmosphere in the castle and imagine
the times of political intrigue and betrayal that make up the
fabric of medieval history.
A visit to Ludlow would not be complete without visiting the
shops. Antiques, books, gifts and local produce can all be found
in the town centre, and the thrice-weekly market in the castle
square, which dates back to the 12th century, offers more than 40
stalls selling everything from incense to cheese. There are also
antique, craft and farmer's markets throughout the year.
Even an aimless wander through Ludlow will unearth a wealth of
history and culture from the town's medieval heyday to its status
as a fashionable 18th century destination. There are hidden
charms and oddities around every corner. In an idyllic setting,
with numerous options for exploring the local countryside, Ludlow
is always a bustling town, surrounded by history, old and new.
You just have to open your eyes to see it.
More Information:
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Writer, teacher and psychologist Jane Gilbert comes from Devon, England, and lives by the sea in Italy. After studying English Literature, she ran away to Brazil where she travelled extensively and cuddled sloths. She likes giraffes and curl reviver.
Article and photos © 2006 Jane Gilbert
Drinks photo courtesy of Britainonview.com
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